Tuesday, 10 January 2012

Simple Bipolar Stepper Motor Drivers



Today I've been making some stepper motor drivers for a mini PCB mill that I want to make some time in the future. It would of cause be much easier to go out and buy some off-the-shelf drivers - but no where near as fun.

So these are the spec's I decided that I would build towards:
  • Current limited bipolar driver
  • Capable of running a 1.2A motor
  • Microstepping if possible
  • Motor voltage 24v-36v
  • Cost £5-10
A quick search on Farnell shows the Allegro A3982 driver chip not only will meet the requirements, but is also in very good supply. Lovely. The only down side is that the chip will only do 1/2 microstepping. 

Another driver of interest I came across was the A3967. It only outputs 750ma, but it microsteps to 1/8, for the same price as the A3982.

The A3982 will output 2A @ 35v, so I think that's our chip.

The control pins

Enable: Sets the state of the chip, enabled or disabled. When pulled low, the device is enabled. With pulled logic high, the device turns off all outputs and the chip is disabled. In this design there is a pull-up resistor connected so as to set the default state to disabled.

Reset: Resets the chip to it's default. Pulled low to perform a reset. A pullup resistor is added to stop the driver floating into reset mode.

MS1: Microstepping select - only 2 levels of microstepping are avialable on this particular chip, none and 1/2 stepping. A pulldown resistor is added to make it default to no microstepping. The pin is pulled high to enable 1/2 stepping.

Direction: Sets the rotation direction. When pulled low rotation is clockwise. When high, anticlockwise.

Step: When the pin state transitions from low to high a step is performed. No action is taken on a high-to-low transition. A pulldown resistor is connected to this pin.

Config

The current is set using a function of the current sense resistors, and the voltage at Vref. Vref has a maximum voltage of 4v so to keep things nice and simple I'm going to just pop in a simple voltage divider from the +5v logic supply. The function for the calculation of the current limiting is as follows:

Imax = Vref / ( 8 * Isense)

One important factor in this will be the power dispensation of the current sense resistor Isense. We could pop a large high wattage resistor on here but that would not be ideal. We will try and pop a very low resistance precision resistor in here. Using a 0.074ohm resistor would dispel 0.7155w, so a 1W 0.047ohm resistor would be prefect here.

One very important thing to note here is that the tracks of the PCB will add their own resistance. We will try and place the Isense resistors close to the chip, using nice wide tracks so as to reduce this as much as possible. We will also need to make sure this part of the copper PCB is tinned so as to stop the oxidation of the copper.

Feeding our known values into the equation above we can calculate that our upper limit of 1.5A is achieved with a Vref of 0.564v, and to reduce the current limit, we need to reduce the Vref. We need to create a variable voltage divider that will give a maximum reading of 0.564v on the Vref pin.

With a value for R3 of 1k ohm we can hard set the maximum configurable current of the system by assigning R4 a value of 27ohm and adding a series variable resistor of 100ohm. The total resistance of the 2 resistors will vary from 27ohm to 127ohm. This will give a lower current bound of around 0.35A.

Working towards the maximum ratings of the driver board (35v 1.5A - 52.5W) we can say the value for the Isense resistor can be 0.047ohm with a reference voltage of 2.4v. The motors that I have kicking around have a resistance of 3.4ohm, so there will be a total resistance of 3.447ohm from the motor supply. So the power dispensation of the Isense resistor would be 0.72W. So 1W 0R047 precision resistors will be perfect for the job.

So here's the schematic I came up with:


The interfacing to the chip is done through a 2*3 header. This provides an interface for chip reset, enable, microstep, direction & step. Nice big screw terminals for the power input (motor voltage & logic supply) and motor outputs.

I decided to have these boards made up properly. I have used BatchPCB before and was very happy with the quality and price. They charge $2.50 per square inch for 2-sided boards, and I managed to get the layout down to 1*1.5 inch, so the boards are down to $3.75 a unit.

Here's the layout:


And the top and bottom renders:

Bottom

Top

The boards turned up in around 2 weeks. I ordered 8 units, they delivered 16. I figure that they use up any excess space on the panel with whatever fits (same thing happened last time I ordered from them), nice little surprise.

Here's the assembled board:




Once assembled I whacked on the power, a small motor and an Arduino to give it a little logic. Up and running well.

Here's the video of it running:

video

All in all I'm pretty happy with the A3982 driver from Allegro. With the small motor running at 10W the driver didn't seem to get hot at all. I would recommend them to anyone.

If you want to order one of these boards you can get them from BatchPCB for $3.70 here.


Tuesday, 22 November 2011

UPDATED: VFD Tube Clock

A little update, the display board  is now assembled and tested - all seems to be good (bar some sketchy soldering). 








Just finished the drilling for my new 6 digit VFD tube clock. More to follow once the driver board and assembly is done.


Sunday, 30 October 2011

Drawdio Plus!

I'm sure most of you already know what a Drawdio is (originalanother). We have used them a few times before for soldering workshops. They always go down well as they are pretty fun little things.

After (another) late nights etching and drilling earlier this year i decided I was getting pretty bored of hand making the PCB's each time so I thought it might be a pretty cleaver idea to have a batch of boards printed up. I didn't really want to just completely copy the originals, for a couple of reasons. More on that below.

So here's what I came up with...


In principal, it's much the same as the original versions of the Drawdio. Notable changes (from the Ladyada design) are the replacement of the tlc551 with an na555n chip, the addition of a line out (so it can be plugged into things) and replacement of the AAA battery with 2 CR2032 coin cells.


The board has been given some nice curvy dimensions, the ones at the top having been specifically made to accommodate the speakers obtained for the kits. The CR2032's are attached at the bottom of the PCB, and do take up quite a lot of real estate - but are pretty light.



And if you've got some skills, the speaker can be directly attached to the PCB by soldering through the big pads on the top. Whilst helping people solder these up at the Brighton Mini Maker Faire it did however become fairly obvious that it wasn't a very good idea to recommend that people do this if they haven't soldered before. The plastic casing of the speaker was completely fine, but the glue that held the small PCB on to the speaker had a tendency to melt and snap the tiny wires in the speaker.



For anyone who wants to have a go at making one themselves, the schematic above is the current version. Complete kits are available using the links below. Postage is to UK & EU only (using EU option). Proceeds go to help BuildBrighton Hackspace!

Kit contents
PCB
Components
Pencil
Zip tie
Copper Tape
Wire
Drawing pin
CR2032 Batteries
Speaker





Monday, 11 July 2011

More Laser Action

Had a little bit of a laser session yesterday, and finished the prototype for the enclosure for the new laser. All's looking pretty good but it turned out there were a few flaws in the positioning of some of the components.

also, cutting from 5mm caused the small holes to taper a lot. So all hones have been upped by 0.25mm for the final cut - for which the acrylic turned up today.

 The bottom piece cut from 5mm plain acrylic with power supply, laser driver and galvo's.

 Rear panel with parts added.

Back of the rear panel. It was a bit of a squeeze to get the laser interlock key in there. Designs have been revised for the final cut.

 Top panel with grills for the 2 40mm fans to cool the servo drivers.

Underside of the top panel. 

The bottom and back panels mounted as they will be in the final design.

 The laser cutter working hard to prep the side panels and internal parts.

 The top of the servo driver support being cut.

Everything but the front panel assembled, with most components. The side panel is on the wrong side. 

A tight squeeze in the enclosure. Hopefully there won't be any overheating issues.

Servo driver holder. The top support is too close to the transistors on the 2 large heatsinks. Also the vertical support makes the entire assembly go off to one side due to the cut.

Vertical support for the laser driver. This ended up going straight into the back of the ILDA ports, so will have to be moved to the edge of the laser driver for the final cut.

The foll box assembled.  

And from the front.

There are no pictures of the laser diode it's self as the whole assembly for this did not work. It didn't fit the laser and it didn't fir the case. I have made a lot of changes to this for the final cut and given it a little more space in the enclosure.

Sunday, 3 July 2011

Making A Start On The Laser Enclosure

After a good 12 months since I bought a galvo set, controller and laser diode, a start has finally been made on the enclosure for housing it all. This has been partially spurred on by possible projects to present at the Brighton Mini Maker Faire.

An evening at the pub with fellow nerds ended up with the idea of a text-based adventure game, projected on the wall of the Brighton Dome with lasers. The idea being that people text in commands in order to progress the game. Before any progress can be made on this of cause I need a proper enclosure for the laser and galvo's. What with now having access to a laser cutter, and having a pile of 5mm acrylic I decided this was a good time.

Step 1 - I have set out the footprint for each component. There is a footprint and 2nd dimension for each part.


Most of the parts are set to be cut in 5mm white acrylic, with a couple of them in 3mm (specifically the adjustment platform for the laser diode). Next step will be to create the box layout for it and fit in all the components.

The only concern with the design so far is the servo drivers - they get really really hot. To help with this, I have added a couple of 40mm fans.

Fun with lasers!

Tuesday, 31 May 2011

Noise Toys

This bank holiday Monday we ran an exciting workshop, 'Noise Toys' followed by an evening of Chip Tunes at the Pop Up Playgroup (Hectors House) in Brighton. Lots of fun, but a lot of prep work went in to making the kits for everyone. But that's boring... here are some pictures:

Copper board etching away some lovely 'Mini Space Rocker' PCB's in ferric chloride

5 of the 7 panels of 'Drawdio' kits being cut out

Kits being put together and packed ready for the workshop

The full box of kits: Drawdio's, Space Rockers & Space Rocker cap kits

Chris explaining cool nerdy tech to people

The workshop in progress